The Voyage of Niovi (English)

Kiel 🇩🇪 to Rostock 🇩🇪

Sat, 13 Sep 2025 00:00:00 +0000

Cast off at 10am with 12-15 knots from the southeast. The side wind made single-handed departure from the Kiel dock interesting. Expected a reach accross the Kieler Bucht, got a beat instead. White sails everywhere in the Foerde—Kieler Woche weather without the event.

At the mouth of the fjord, the military shooting range normally forces a 10-mile detour. They announced cessation of operations on VHF at 1200. Saved the extra tack.

Wind built to 20 knots. Set staysail on the foredeck and got thoroughly soaked—short, steep waves I hadn’t anticipated. Wind dropped back to 12-15 within an hour. Shook out the genoa and settled into proper upwind work. Another sailboat led the way ahead while a smaller open boat fell behind. Held formation for most of the afternoon.

By 1600 I was tired and Heiligenhafen offered an anchorage. The alternative meant motoring under the Fehmarn Sund bridge. Anchor set minutes before dark clouds arrived with thunder and an hour of heavy rain. No lightning visible. Evening cleared to sun and light air. Non-alcoholic anchor beer, quiet night.

Next morning the wind backed southwest. Approached Fehmarn Sund bridge under sail—clearance supposedly 6 meters above the mast. Didn’t look it. Absolutely certain the masthead would strike. It didn’t.

Broad reach east with wind to 18 knots in gusts. Uneventful run to Warnemünde entrance. Autumn gale forecast for the following days, so aimed for Hohe Düehne—easiest marina access on this coast. Anchored briefly outside at 1700. Wind gusting 15 knots on the beam, dolphins in the box. Waited an hour for conditions to ease, then attempted entry. Single-handing dolphins requires being at helm, midships for lines, and somehow stopping halfway in without the bow getting caught. Managed it eventually.

Weather Conditions

Wind: Southeast 12-20 knots (day 1), southwest 12-18 knots with gusts (day 2)
Seas: 1 meter, short and steep
Weather: Clear to cloudy, thunderstorms and heavy rain at anchor, clearing overnight

Departure: Kiel
Arrival: Hohe Düehne (Rostock)
Distance: 78 nautical miles (about 144 kilometers)
Duration: 31 hours (with overnight anchorage)

Notes

Forestay chainplate and aft lower terminals leak in rain

Highlights

First anchorage in weeks
Baltic Sea characteristics noticeably different from North Sea and Atlantic

Photos

Racing in Kieler Bucht

Thunder and heavy rain minutes after anchoring—cleared by evening

Six meters of clearance that felt like negative two

Approaching Hohe Düehne

Cuxhaven to Kiel 🇩🇪

Sat, 30 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

After me sailing along Europe for two month alone, Barbara and Emma (her dog) joined for the Kiel Canal transit. I had missed them and was super happy to pick them up Friday evening at Cuxhaven station.

The Elbe sail went fast with the noon tide Saturday. Gusty wind and favorable stream pushed us along while cargo ships overtook at regular intervals. At Brunsbuettel we called the lock on VHF and were directed to enter within minutes. Barbara’s first time handling dock lines—we positioned our small metal ladder against the toerail and she stepped onto the floating pontoon. The lines went on smoothly with no current or wind to fight. We set sails after exiting but the high vegetation on both channel banks blocked the wind completely. Motor on after ten minutes.

The canal dictates specific clearance times depending on season. We anchored near Dückerswisch Weiche just before the deadline. Emma needed shore access urgently, so we dashed ashore with the dinghy for an evening walk. Cargo traffic passing overnight created peculiar sounds through the hull.

Next morning we motored to Gieselau Lock, a quiet side-arm with only cyclists and cows for company. The place was too pleasant for just a lunch stop. We extended it to the following day.

Third night at Yachtclub Büddelsdorf brought shore power and immediate rain. We waited out the downpour, then explored the nearby town. Emma extended her snack collection from a local store.

Day four we reached the Kiel exit lock and called the lock on VHF, being informed about a twenty-minute wait for a small freighter. Two other sailboats arrived while we waited. Inside the lock a dockside speaker announced all sailboats should exit. Barbara and I immediately cast off and headed for the opening gate, passing the other boats who looked confused and told us to wait for the announcement. I wasn’t sure anymore but kept going. The moment the lock called “sailing boat” on VHF I assumed they wanted to reprimand us and responded instantly. They didn’t reply. Barbara still laughs about my panicked VHF response weeks later.

We motored to a nearby marina with dolphin moorings—standard in the Baltic, first time for us. The approach went slowly in calm conditions while we slipped lines over the outer dolphins. Emma whined from below deck the entire time, clearly annoyed at being excluded from the action. It went smoothly despite our nerves.

Weather Conditions

Wind: Gusty on the Elbe, none in the canal
Seas: Flat canal water
Weather: Clear and sunny, once rain

Departure: Cuxhaven
Arrival: Kiel, Stickenhoern
Distance: 74 nautical miles (about 137 kilometers)
Duration: 4 days (16 hours under power)

Notes

Changed saildrive oil before departure due to ongoing water ingress concerns
Oil levels remained stable throughout passage

Highlights

Reunion sail after two months apart
Our first lock passings

Photos

Scale difference—container ship overtaking under canal bridge

Chilled canal motoring—Emma’s interpretation

Full crew at Gieselau Lock

Emma on foredeck duty in the canal

Oostende 🇧🇪 to Cuxhaven 🇩🇪

Tue, 26 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

Departing at 0400 balanced sleep, tide, and the hope of passing Dutch shipping traffic in daylight. The maze of sandbanks, traffic separation schemes, gas platforms, and wind farms proved less daunting than expected. A steady westerly pushed me along nicely until it died - naturally - right in the middle of Rotterdam’s shipping lane.

I became a proper nuisance to the freighters, jibing repeatedly while going nowhere. The VHF conversations with Maas Traffic Control were surprisingly friendly, considering my inconvenient position.

Night fell as I sailed up the West Frisian Islands under genoa, alternating short naps with jibes. The westerlies were dying, but anchoring in the Waddenzee seemed unwise - these shallow waters looked restless despite their flatness. Right at the German border I flew the blister briefly, chasing the last puffs before the wind died completely.

Midnight brought headwinds, and I started tacking east through the German Bight. Luck finally appeared - I reached the narrow Elbe channel entrance just as the tide turned to carry me upstream. I could pinch most of the way, motoring only the final 6 miles to Cuxhaven.

A note on marina entry: don’t charge the narrow entrance at full throttle while 3-knot current runs perpendicular. Pass the entrance, then approach against the stream. Much “tidier”.

Weather Conditions

Wind: Westerly to 20 knots, then easterly to 13 knots
Seas: Low initially, choppy in German Bight
Weather: Clear but increasingly cloudy

Departure: Oostende
Arrival: Cuxhaven Yacht Harbor
Distance: 207.5 nautical miles (about 384 kilometers)
Duration: 2 days, 11 hours

Technical Notes

Port navigation light failed leaving Oostende harbor
Water in bilge again, including forward compartment this time

Highlights

Pleasant VHF exchanges with Maas Traffic Control while dodging ships
Constructed an anchor ball during a calm patch
Christoph and crew caught my lines in Cuxhaven, showed me their boat, gifted a courtesy flag and provisions

Photos

Shipping everywhere

Dodging freighters with help from Maas Traffic Control

Sunset off the Frisian Islands

Flying the blister as the wind died

Dover 🇬🇧 to Oostende 🇧🇪

Fri, 22 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

After a week of easterlies pinning me in Dover, I finally had my chance. The priority hierarchy was clear: cross the shipping lanes without getting hit, then reach the Netherlands - though I lacked a Belgian courtesy flag.

I left in the early morning with the westbound tide, hoping to hold my bow east while reaching in the northerly breeze and crossing the traffic separation scheme at right angles. Light winds forced me to motor. With the saildrive taking on water, every revolution of the prop shoveled more saltwater into the gears - not ideal.

The French coast slid by at a distance, the shore shallow for miles out. Dunkirk and other ports remained just names on the chart. By afternoon, patience ran out. Rather than face a night at sea fighting the tide, I turned into Oostende. The lack of a Belgian flag would have to be forgiven.

Weather Conditions

Wind: Light, up to 14 knots northerly
Seas: Low swell
Weather: Clear throughout

Departure: Dover Marina (outer basin)
Arrival: Oostende, Royal North Sea Yacht Club
Distance: 71 nautical miles (about 131 kilometers)
Duration: 13 hours

Notes

Bilge pump activated unexpectedly in the afternoon - freshwater from the still-leaking tank
The tide carved a perfect S-curve on the chart despite holding steady course

Photos

Leaving Dover and the British coast at dawn

Industrial Belgian coastline behind shallow waters

Portland 🇬🇧 to Dover 🇬🇧

Wed, 13 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

I’d provisioned using the dinghy the day before and left Portland with the morning tide. Light winds from astern meant motoring most of the way, and frustratingly, oil appeared in the bilge again - the Spanish saildrive repair hadn’t solved the water intrusion problem.

I anchored off the Needles, tucked under the Isle of Wight’s white cliffs. Not ideal - sudden gusts from all directions and tourist boats passing every few minutes kept me on edge. With the next tide I passed south of the Isle of Wight at night, threading through Portsmouth’s commercial traffic. The anchored cargo ships were particularly impressive, generators roaring through the darkness, tidal streams breaking against their bows - they seemed ready to depart despite sitting at anchor.

When the tide turned foul in the morning, progress slowed to a crawl. It took the entire day to pass a single wind farm, creeping along at 2 knots. The boat finally accelerated past Dungeness power station - a strange, flat landscape where every house and car stands silhouetted against the horizon for miles.

Dover made me nervous. It’s a massive industrial port with a three-stage VHF protocol for marina entry. Add the tidal stream at the entrance and my lack of recent docking practice - I hadn’t tied up anywhere in months. The arrival proved hectic but went smoothly enough.

Weather Conditions

Wind: Light, building to 14 knots from southwest
Seas: Flat throughout
Weather: Foggy and gray initially, sunny and clear on day two

Departure: Portland Harbour
Arrival: Dover Marina (outer basin)
Distance: 160 nautical miles (about 296 kilometers)
Duration: 1 day, 13 hours

Technical Notes

Dragged anchor on second morning in Portland, noticed immediately and reset
Fixed outboard by replacing spark plug - apparently doesn’t need extensive warm-up
Radio’s CPA alarms became maddening, disabled them
Water entering the saildrive again
Most N2K devices crashed on Dover arrival - low voltage suspected
Radio position inside cabin problematic - can’t helm and communicate simultaneously

Highlights

Threading between anchored cargo ships at night
Navigating tidal races at St Aldhelm’s Head and Isle of Wight
Spotting an Ocean Race boat making 7 knots upwind in 8 knots of breeze

Photos

Waiting out the tide at the Needles

A wind farm that took the entire morning to pass

Ocean Race boat making 7 knots upwind in 8 knots of wind

The Seven Sisters cliff formation

Passing the retired Dungeness nuclear power station

Audierne 🇫🇷 to Portland 🇬🇧

Thu, 07 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

The Raz de Sein is a narrow passage between Île de Sein and Pointe du Raz, known for strong currents and unpredictable conditions. I chose the calmest forecast to pass through. The tidal stream was meant to turn favorable at 0900, but it didn’t cooperate - first against me, then pushing sideways. With no wind as promised, I motored all morning and afternoon to clear western Brittany.

East of Ushant the swell suddenly increased. I’d entered an overfall where tidal streams meet. With only 10 knots of wind I was making 11 knots over ground - the current was pushing hard from behind. At the channel’s end the water literally boiled with upwellings and confused seas that sent the autopilot hunting wildly.

Entering the English Channel proper, the swell built to over 1.2 meters while the wind remained frustratingly light. The boat rolled heavily, sails slamming. I was ready to turn back when finally, at 1600, the promised 12 knots filled in.

I aimed to cross the shipping lanes before dark for better visibility. Made it on time, but the weather turned British immediately - drizzle reducing visibility to under 2 miles. The cargo ships passing close by are humbling in their size.

The forecast promised a quiet night with under 15 knots. Instead it gusted to 25 and stayed there. I hadn’t rigged the staysail for heavy weather, and couldn’t face the wet, bouncing foredeck to set it up now. The reefed genoa wasn’t ideal for beating upwind in these conditions. I abandoned Plymouth for Portland - further off the wind and easier on the sails.

Portland Bill’s overfalls are notorious. Approaching from the west, I needed to round the headland then turn north, timing it before the tide turned foul at 2000. My first attempt at cutting the corner met a wall of breaking seas stretching a mile wide. I jibed away quickly. The second approach from the southeast worked better - steep waves from the south tried to throw the boat around, but I hand-steered through them, using the push to make northing faster. Soon I was anchored in Portland’s huge harbor, still buzzing with adrenaline.

Weather Conditions

Wind: Light morning, 12 knots afternoon, gusting 25 knots overnight
Seas: 1.2m+ swell in Channel, steep breaking seas at Portland Bill
Weather: Clear start, drizzle and poor visibility from evening

Departure: Audierne
Arrival: Portland Harbour
Distance: 227 miles (421 km)
Duration: 1 day 17 hours

Notes

Main track stopper slipping under load
Hydro generator not producing power
Another mainsail slider failed

Highlights

Strong currents east of Ushant - 11 knots SOG with 10 knots wind
Hand-steering through Portland Bill overfalls

Photos

Approaching the Raz de Sein

English Channel shipping traffic in poor visibility

Westbound traffic a few hours later

Mid-channel visitors

Portland Harbour at dusk

Cedeira 🇪🇸 to Audierne 🇫🇷

Thu, 31 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

The Bay of Biscay. Every sailor has heard the stories - massive storms, ship-killing waves, the graveyard of countless vessels. After learning respect for the Atlantic along the Portuguese coast, and now waiting out persistent northerlies on the Galician coast, I was both excited and apprehensive. The forecast showed the Azores High extending into the Bay, bringing constant but manageable northerly winds. The window wasn’t perfect, but it knew what I’d get. Time to go.

The Spanish coast creates a wind acceleration zone - what might be 15 knots offshore becomes 20+ near the coast due to “compression” effects. Add in thermal effects that peak in the afternoon, and timing becomes critical. I chose a 1am departure, hoping to punch through this coastal wind acceleration before the afternoon thermal boost kicked in. The plan: get offshore fast, then deal with the rest.

Day one went to plan. Winds from 30-50° at 10-16 knots - perfect for staying on starboard tack and eating up miles northwest. Reached the main shipping lane that runs along the Bay’s outer edge by afternoon. This 20-mile-wide highway from Spain to the English Channel sees constant cargo traffic. Timing it right meant crossing in daylight - much easier to dodge the half-dozen ships that appeared during my transit.

First leg complete, I settled in to wait for the forecast wind shift to northwest. At 22:00, the wind went west and I tacked immediately - too eager, as it turned out. Within 30 minutes it veered to due north and stuck there for 14 frustrating hours. Now I was heading east - right back where I’d come from - making minimal northing. If these conditions persisted, I’d have to sail 60% farther to reach France. Not the Biscay crossing I’d planned.

Finally, at 11:00 on day two, the wind backed to northwest and I could point almost directly at Brest. A few hours later I noticed something odd on the chart: a border line between Spain and France running through the middle of the Bay. International waters get complicated out here.

The rest of day two was glorious - sunshine, steady 16-knot winds, perfect sailing. During a routine check I found 3.5 liters of freshwater in the bilge. Puzzling, since it was bone dry at departure.

Entering the second night, I stuck to my 15-minute sleep rotation, but exhaustion was building. At 04:20 a propper gust heeled the boat hard over, jerking me awake. The instrument showed 22 knots and I scrambled on deck to drop the genoa.

Day three brought me back to the continental shelf around 15:00, where depths plunge from 4,000 meters to a few hundred. The shelf edge was working hard - a massive fishing fleet of 20-30 meter trawlers dragging nets everywhere. Dodging them while preparing for the forecast weather took concentration.

I’d been expecting stronger conditions today and wasn’t disappointed. By 20:30, 25 knots arrived as advertised. I’d already swapped the genoa for the staysail and put the second reef in the main, but the combination just doesn’t work well on Niovi. She’ll only make 3-4 knots, and the autopilot struggles despite balanced helm. I motor-sailed at 800 watts to help the pilot cope with the building seas. The temperature plummeted to 14°C - coldest night in months.

I knew I’d reached France when my phone pinged with messages - civilization! But the approach was long, and the wind was backing against me. Exhausted from a night of pounding into steep seas, I abandoned plans for Brest and aimed for Audierne instead. Should have been one tack, but the wind went crazy - shifting, gusting, dying, returning. Three tacks later I finally dropped anchor.

I cracked open my last three non-alcoholic beers from Spain and toasted to 380 miles in just over three days.

Weather Conditions

Wind: Day 1: NE 10-16 knots; Day 2: N then NW 16 knots; Day 3: NW 25+ knots
Seas: <1.5m, then steep and aggressive on final night
Weather: Cloudy/rainy at start and finish, beautiful clear middle section

Departure: Cedeira
Arrival: Audierne
Distance: 380 miles (704 km)
Duration: 3 days and 8 hours

Notes

Mystery bilge water: 3.5L fresh water, source unknown
Staysail configuration works (barely) for heavy weather
Equipment issues discovered:
- Aft lower shrouds leaking in rain
- Fridge shelves sliding on starboard tack
- Stove gimbal sticking on starboard tack
- Cockpit locker latch failing on port tack
- AIS CPA alarm resets every 30 seconds (maddening!)

Highlights

Niovi’s upwind ability in challenging conditions confirmed
No major equipment failures despite rough conditions

Photos

Mid-Biscay entertainment

beating up the Bay

The continental shelf edge - prime fishing grounds

Final night conditions - 25 knots sustained

Last sunset of the passage

A Coruña to Cedeira 🇪🇸

Sun, 27 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

I felt ready to cross the Bay of Biscay. First, though, I needed to get properly offshore. The forecast promised mild northwest winds, perfect for my northeast heading.

The day turned into a frustrating game of meteorological whack-a-mole. Five separate times the wind crept above 6 knots, and each time I’d eagerly hoist full sail, ready to make the big jump ahead. And each time, after maybe 20 minutes, the wind would die completely, leaving me with slatting sails and zero progress.

After eight hours of this stop-start nonsense, mostly motoring with brief interludes of futile sailing, I was still hugging the coast. Time for a rethink. I turned up the Ria de Cedeira to anchor and reconsider my options.

Weather Conditions

Wind: Very light and fickle from NW, rarely above 6 knots
Seas: Up to 1 meter swells
Weather: Clear and sunny

Departure: Mera (A Coruña)
Arrival: Cedeira
Distance: 28 miles (52 km)
Duration: 8 hours

Notes

All systems working well except “Speed through Water” - paddlewheel probably fouled

Highlights

Epic cliffs at Ría de Cedeira entrance

Photos

Serra da Capelada

Entrance to Cedeira - spectacular cliffs

Muros to A Coruña 🇪🇸

Tue, 22 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

I’ll admit it - I was genuinely nervous about this next stretch. The coast from Muros north around Cape Finisterre has earned its ominous name “Costa da Morte” (Coast of Death) through centuries of shipwrecks. Strong storms, huge waves, frequent fog, and underwater rocks everywhere - the headland offers few safe harbors when things go wrong.

I picked what looked like a quiet day with mild southwesterlies forecast for the afternoon. Started well enough - even got an hour of sailing in before approaching Finisterre. Then, predictably, the wind died and fog rolled in. I gave the cape a respectful berth, motoring well offshore. Despite all the horror stories, I found no unusual swell, currents, or other hazards - just thick fog and eerie calm.

The afternoon delivered the promised breeze, but only 8 knots from astern. With a northwest swell rolling through, the boat wallowed, sails slatting and banging. I tried poling out the genoa but couldn’t get it to set properly. By 21:30, exhausted from wrestling with unusable wind, I ducked into Corme for the night.

Day two brought proper conditions - northerlies at 16 knots. Great for sailing, but less great when you’re on a lee shore with the Costa da Morte waiting to claim any mistakes. The wind and swell were pushing me toward the rocks, and I couldn’t help thinking about all the things that could fail - rudder, rigging, engine. Not the time for equipment problems.

After beating around the Sisargas Islands, I was finally able to crack sheets and reach toward A Coruña.

Weather Conditions

Wind: Day 1: calm to 8 knots SW; Day 2: 16 knots N
Seas: Up to 1.5m swell from NW
Weather: Day 1: cloudy, foggy, and drizzly; Day 2: cloudy but good visibility

Departure: Muros
Overnight Anchor: Corme
Arrival: Mera (near A Coruña)
Distance: 90 miles (167 km)
Duration: 22 hours

Highlights

Rounding Cape Finisterre in fog
Intense lee shore sailing along the Costa da Morte

Photos

Touríñan lighthouse

Attempting to pole out the genoa - with limited success in the swell

My company along the Costa da Morte

A Coruña skyline

Ribeira to Muros 🇪🇸

Fri, 18 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

Alone again on Niovi, I had to keep pushing north. I’d been waiting for anything but northerlies, and finally got my chance. The morning brought an unexpected first - a MOB (Man Overboard) alarm from another vessel at exactly 08:59. Coming from coordinates 99N 999E right on the hour made it obviously a test transmission. Sure enough, it was cancelled at 09:03. Good to know the system works, though it certainly got my attention.

The rest of the passage proved frustratingly windless. The forecast had promised westerlies in the afternoon, but they never materialized. Eight hours of motoring through glassy calm conditions - not exactly the sailing I’d hoped for. Still, it gave me time to run some power consumption calculations (see notes below). I reached Muros in the evening and found a comfortable spot to anchor in 8 meters.

Weather Conditions

Wind: None - all day
Seas: Minimal swell, ~1.2m outside the ria
Weather: Clear but cloudy

Departure: Ribeira
Arrival: Muros
Distance: 23 miles (43 km)
Duration: 8 hours

Notes

Ran a power consumption test today: motored all day at about 900 watts (800 RPM), which gives 2.5-3 knots in calm conditions with swell at about 1 meter. With solar panels delivering around 300 watts, the net drain took the battery from 85% to 56% over 8 hours. Quick math suggests a range of about 70 miles (130 km) in perfect sunny conditions at low speed.

Highlights

First MOB alarm received

Photos

Motoring out of Ribeira in the early morning calm

Final approach to Muros

A Pobra do Caramiñal to Ribeira 🇪🇸

Sun, 13 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

No matter which direction we’d been traveling lately, it always seemed to be upwind - and this trip promised no exception. We rose early, hoping to beat the wind, and motored slowly down the Ría de Arousa towards Illa de Sálvora. Playful dolphins accompanied us for a while, and once the wind finally arrived, Kosta and I got some good tacking practice before anchoring off our overnight stop.

The island welcomed us with rain and fog - perfect weather for hiding below and cooking a proper meal. The afternoon cleared up nicely, so we landed on the island and made our way to the lighthouse. Walking through colonies of breeding gulls and across rusty yellow granite rocks, Albina gave us a fascinating introduction to lichens - apparently Earth’s most ancient and adaptable organisms. They can reproduce in countless ways, survive in outer space, and don’t mind the salty Atlantic spray one bit. There are also rabbits everywhere on the island, though they proved more elusive than the lichens.

We discovered an abandoned but well-maintained village on the island (possibly a museum complex?). On the way, we passed a fountain and couldn’t resist trying the local water. Some friendly park rangers met us at the village entrance and explained that special permission was needed to visit - which we didn’t have. Fair enough. We turned back and ended the day with a bracing swim off the boat.

The next morning brought perfect sailing conditions - briefly. We set off for Ribeira under full sail, but when the wind died after an hour, we dropped canvas and motored the rest of the way, anchoring off the town beach. The little town proved a gem, with a great coastal walk to the southwest, hip cafés, and - crucially - laundry facilities, which we used extensively.

Further exploration led us to “Laxe das Rodas”, a petroglyph dating from the Copper or Bronze Age. The rock carvings show what look like six-legged animals - perhaps the ancient artists’ way of depicting speed?

Kosta and Albina departed here, leaving me solo again. I’d had a fantastic time with them, rediscovering the joys of leisurely coastal sailing - short hops between anchorages, no rush, plenty of time to explore each stop properly.

Weather Conditions

Wind: nothing, then light south-westerlies
Seas: flat, light swell when approaching Illa de Salvora
Weather: rainy and foggy after anchoring before Salvora, later nice

Departure: A Pobra do Caraminal
Overnight stop: Illa de Salvora
Arrival: Ribeira
Distance: 17 miles (31 km)
Duration: 7 hours sailing + overnight at Sálvora

Notes

Strong northerlies prevented reaching the next ría north
Marina in Ribeira was full, anchored off the beach instead

Highlights

Diverse wildlife on Illa de Sálvora
Coastal walk along Ribeira’s beaches
Bronze Age petroglyphs

Crew

Kosta and Albina

Photos

An unobstructed view of the Atlantic - next stop: America

Making the most of the rain - proper cooking weather

The crew’s farewell photo - Kosta and Albina’s last day aboard

Vilagarcia 🇪🇸 to Caraminal 🇪🇸

Fri, 11 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

The day before, Albina and Kosta had arrived by train, and I was looking forward to exploring the ria with them. We set out for the nearby Illa de Cortegada for an overnight anchorage.

Exploring the island the next morning, we learned quite a lot about the history of this fascinating little place before sailing on to A Pobra do Caramiñal. As usual, we had the wind on the nose, and naturally, some of the reefing lines were set incorrectly from my previous sail.

Kosta and I worked to sort things out, tacking back and forth through the narrow channel while Albina kept everything secure down below. Our efforts were rewarded with live traditional music and dance performances at our destination.

Weather Conditions

Wind: Up to 14 knots from SW (240°)
Seas: Flat, protected waters
Weather: Cloudy and warm

Departure: Playa Vilagarcia
Overnight stop: Illa de Cortegada (National Park island)
Arrival: A Pobra do Caramiñal
Distance: 9 nautical miles
Duration: 3.5 hours sailing time

Highlights

Illa de Cortegada: National park island with rich history
Team sailing: Great to have crew help with the boat handling
Municipal swimmingpool: We visited a “Piscina Municipal” and had a great time
Authentic atmosphere: Genuine small-town Spanish coastal life

Photos

Riding the dinghy after sunset

Traditional music and dance performances originating from various places in Spain

Islas de Arousa 🇪🇸 to Vilagarcia de Arausa 🇪🇸

Wed, 09 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

Six weeks ashore for saildrive repairs. Cold northerlies had been blowing strong for days, but visitors were arriving in Villagarcia that evening. Time to sail.

The track tells the story. Got out to the channel with genoa only, then spent an bit tacking back and forth on the spot against tide and wind. When I went to raise the main for better pointing, discovered all reefing lines were missing—removed for sawing of the sail cover, forgotten to reattach. Wind gusting 15 knots. Anchored off Cabo de Cruz to sort the mess properly rather than fight weather and equipment failures together.

Noon brought thick fog rolling in from the southwest. Completed the run to Villagarcia with the wind behind, but visibility dropped to nothing. Stood on the bow the whole way, whistle every two minutes, listening for engines. At least anchoring practice remained sharp—easiest part of the day.

Weather Conditions

Wind: Gusty NE, later W up to 15 knots
Seas: Flat
Weather: Clear, then thick fog with drizzle

Departure: Illa de Arousa
Arrival: Villagarcia de Arousa
Distance: 11 nautical miles
Duration: 3 hours, with a break

Notes

Check all running rigging after extended non-use
Heavy fog navigation: whistle, AIS, radar reflector

Highlights

First proper fog navigation

Photos

Ready to sail after six weeks ashore

Fog rolling in from the southwest

Ribeira 🇪🇸 to Illa de Arousa 🇪🇸

Tue, 13 May 2025 00:00:00 +0000

I departed before dawn, planning to catch good winds toward Finisterre. However, while exiting the ría, a check of the bilge revealed gear oil again - this time with a milky consistency.

I’d previously assumed the saildrive only leaked oil under excessive heel, but the milky appearance indicated water intrusion - a clear sign of seal failure. After anchoring in a protected bay, I researched nearby boatyards and found Porto O Xufre on Illa de Arousa.

The sail to the boatyard was pleasant with favorable tailwinds, though the broken saildrive now tempered the enjoyment.

Weather Conditions

Wind: Moderate northwest winds
Seas: Noticeable swell outside the rías, calmer inside
Weather: Clear conditions for the passage

Departure: Enseada de Ribeira
Arrival: Porto O Xufre, Illa de Arousa
Distance: 24 nautical miles (about 44 kilometers)
Duration: 8 hours

The passage between islands and mainland proved quite narrow in daylight
Interesting to see by day what I’d missed during the pre-dawn departure

Highlights

Exceptional communication and friendliness at Porto O Xufre boatyard
Transparent pricing and helpful service - refreshingly different from previous experiences

Photos

Hauled out for repair —

Balea 🇪🇸 to Ribeira 🇪🇸

Sat, 10 May 2025 00:00:00 +0000

An energetic sail that began in near-calm conditions. After rounding the headland, northerly winds filled in quickly, providing excellent practice for tacking and boat handling in building conditions.

Weather Conditions

Wind: North, building to 20 knots
Seas: Light wind waves with underlying swell
Weather: Overcast with dark clouds

Departure: Bay south of Balea
Arrival: Enseada de Ribeira
Distance: 11 nautical miles (about 20 kilometers)
Duration: 3 hours

Technical Notes

Genoa furling becoming increasingly difficult - likely needs attention
More gear oil drops appearing in bilge - serious issue?
Lost dinghy paddle during motoring - lesson learned about securing equipment
Autopilot handling the tacking practice well

Highlights

sailing race with SV Antares - close competition!
Enjoyed the sportier conditions after recent light-air sailing

Photos

A thoughtful neighbor secured my dinghy properly to a rock, thx Ingo! —

Islas de Cíes 🇪🇸 to Balea 🇪🇸

Thu, 08 May 2025 00:00:00 +0000

A pleasant northbound sail in light winds, passing the distinctive Illa de Ons en route to a sheltered bay west of Porto Pedras Negras. The conditions made for relaxed sailing.

Weather Conditions

Wind: Northwest, dying to calm
Seas: Light westerly swell
Weather: Sunny and warm

Departure: Illa do Faro (Islas Cíes)
Arrival: Bay between San Vicente and Balea
Distance: 15 nautical miles (about 28 kilometers)
Duration: 4.5 hours

Notes

now regular swimming in ~17°C water - refreshing
Hull growth seems to accelerate in the rias
Galician rías provide excellent protected sailing

Highlights

Met sailors aboard SV Mueggele and SV Antares in this bay

Enseada da Barra 🇪🇸 to Illa do Faro (Islas Cíes) 🇪🇸

Wed, 07 May 2025 00:00:00 +0000

A short hop to the Islas Cíes after finally receiving permission to visit and anchor. The online application took several days to process, but the destination proved worth the wait.

The Islas Cíes are a protected national park, limiting visitor numbers and only a few boats are permitted to anchor each day.

Weather Conditions

Wind: Calm conditions
Seas: Flat water
Weather: Sunny and clear

Departure: Enseada da Barra
Arrival: Illa do Faro (Islas Cíes)
Distance: 3.6 nautical miles (about 7 kilometers)
Duration: 1 hour

Highlights

Visited Praia de Rodas - reportedly ranked among the world’s most beautiful beaches

Photos

Praia de Rodas - “one of the world’s most beautiful beaches”

Illa de San Martiño —

Baiona 🇪🇸 to Enseada da Barra 🇪🇸

Sun, 04 May 2025 00:00:00 +0000

A pleasant tandem sail with Jens, a German sailor I met in Baiona Bay. He sails a classic Hans Christian, and we planned to explore the Cies Islands together.

The islands require special permission to visit, so while waiting for clearance, we explored the coastal villages. Jens generously shared his photography skills, capturing some excellent shots of Niovi under sail.

Weather Conditions

Wind: Light northwest winds
Seas: Remarkably flat water
Weather: Cloudy skies

Departure: Ría de Baiona
Arrival: Enseada da Barra
Distance: 9.5 nautical miles (about 18 kilometers)
Duration: 3 hours

Technical Notes

Autopilot wind mode struggles with tacking - turns either too short or too far
Perfect conditions for testing sail trim and autopilot settings

Highlights

Perfect sailing conditions - flat water and steady breeze reminded me of lake sailing on Wannsee
Beautiful photographs of Niovi under sail
Slow exploration of Galician coastal waters

Photos

Niovi under sail - photograph by Jens

Perfect sailing conditions in Galician waters - photograph by Jens

Those clouds! - photograph by Jens —

Peniche 🇵🇹 to Baiona 🇪🇸

Tue, 29 Apr 2025 00:00:00 +0000

I set a course well offshore in deep water, hoping to avoid the fishing buoys that had made sleep impossible on previous coastal passages. Well provisioned and in better spirits, I enjoyed varied sailing conditions with light to moderate winds.

Approaching the Spanish rías from seaward was magical - these “drowned river valleys” create a unique coastline quite different from Portugal’s exposed Atlantic shore.

Weather Conditions

Wind: Variable - light to moderate from different directions
Seas: Light westerly swell
Weather: Hot and sunny

Departure: Peniche, Portugal
Arrival: Baiona, Spain (Galicia)
Distance: 190 nautical miles (about 352 kilometers)
Duration: 2 days, 2 hours

Technical Notes

Sudden insect invasion - various flying insects everywhere in and on the boat
Successfully used asymmetric spinnaker with a tack line for better control when dousing
Generator producing black smoke and refusing to start - likely the spark plug

Highlights

Whale sighting during the passage
Water temperature 2°C warmer offshore - Gulf Stream influence?
First view of the Spanish rías from seaward

Photos

A whale surfaces nearby

First glimpse of the Spanish rías - a change from Portugal’s coastline —

Cascais 🇵🇹 to Peniche 🇵🇹

Tue, 22 Apr 2025 00:00:00 +0000

After ten days waiting in Cascais, restlessness got the better of judgment. The forecast showed light northwest winds - surely the boat could handle pointing upwind? I was eager to test the autopilot’s new wind mode.

Reality arrived quickly. The swell remained significant from the previous weather system, creating uncomfortable conditions. Several tense moments developed when sheets jammed on winches while the mast pumped n the seaway more than I felt comfortable with.

Fatigue convinced me to take the first prepared exit - Peniche. I anchored outside the breakwater, which meant another rolling night. The next few days were spent inside the industrial harbor, waiting for more settled conditions.

Weather Conditions

Wind: Northwest, building to 20 knots
Seas: 1 to 1.5 meter waves with leftover swell
Weather: Clear and sunny but choppy conditions

Departure: Bahia de Cascais
Arrival: Peniche
Distance: 59 nautical miles (about 109 kilometers)
Duration: 16 hours

Technical Notes

Waves smashing against the anchor face with enough force to bend the roller and chainplate, raising concerns about the forestay. This had already happened before Ibiza and before Sardinia
Mast pumping noticeably in the swell - setting running backstays would help
Learned the value of waiting for proper weather windows

Highlights

First extended use of autopilot wind mode in challenging conditions
Passed Cabo da Roca - mainland Europe’s westernmost point
Encountered dolphins along the way

Photos

Cabo da Roca - the westernmost point of mainland Europe

A happy pod of dolphins —

The Voyage of Niovi (English)

Kiel 🇩🇪 to Rostock 🇩🇪

Weather Conditions

Navigation

Notes

Highlights

Photos

Cuxhaven to Kiel 🇩🇪

Weather Conditions

Navigation

Notes

Highlights

Photos

Oostende 🇧🇪 to Cuxhaven 🇩🇪

Weather Conditions

Navigation

Technical Notes

Highlights

Photos

Dover 🇬🇧 to Oostende 🇧🇪

Weather Conditions

Navigation

Notes

Photos

Portland 🇬🇧 to Dover 🇬🇧

Weather Conditions

Navigation

Technical Notes

Highlights

Photos

Audierne 🇫🇷 to Portland 🇬🇧

Weather Conditions

Navigation

Notes

Highlights

Photos

Cedeira 🇪🇸 to Audierne 🇫🇷

Weather Conditions

Navigation

Notes

Highlights

Photos

A Coruña to Cedeira 🇪🇸

Weather Conditions

Navigation

Notes

Highlights

Photos

Muros to A Coruña 🇪🇸

Weather Conditions

Navigation

Highlights

Photos

Ribeira to Muros 🇪🇸

Weather Conditions

Navigation

Notes

Highlights

Photos

A Pobra do Caramiñal to Ribeira 🇪🇸

Weather Conditions

Navigation

Notes

Highlights

Crew

Photos

Vilagarcia 🇪🇸 to Caraminal 🇪🇸

Weather Conditions

Navigation

Highlights

Photos

Islas de Arousa 🇪🇸 to Vilagarcia de Arausa 🇪🇸

Weather Conditions

Navigation

Notes

Highlights

Photos

Ribeira 🇪🇸 to Illa de Arousa 🇪🇸

Weather Conditions

Navigation